Replacement Keyless Entry Remote Smart Key Fob Shell Case Fit for Ford F150 Fusion Explorer Mustang Lincoln MKZ MKC 5 Buttons Button Pad Cover (Black, 5 Buttons)

So, if you've had a Ford since 2014 with a key that looks like this one, you've probably learned to hate your key the first time its battery died. Why? Because it's really hard to change the battery without breaking the key. You probably replaced the battery yourself, and if you did, there's a good chance you mangled the thing. Like I did. Sure, it still works, but it requires electrical tape to hold it together. Also, once the first battery dies, the second and third seem to last shorter and shorter amounts of time (not sure why, but it's true for mine). So you are constantly mangling and re-mangling this cheap plastic fob about once a year to keep your car working.Also, as you know, it costs an insane amount of money to replace these things from a Ford dealer.So... this thing. Bottom line: it's the same as the one that might cost $100 or more from a Ford dealer. It looks the same, feels the same, and falls apart the same way when you first add the internal board from your old one and a new battery.But... it costs roughly $100 less than if you got a new one from Ford.How do you program it to your car? You don't. You pull your old mangled one apart one last time, pull out the board, and insert it into this new one, exactly the same way. And voila. Your car works again.But the act of taking these things apart pretty much breaks them. I have already taped up the new one with electrical tape. But it works. Buy without fear.

I have a 2017 Explorer. My fob was a mess! I had taped it, glued it, the key holder had come off, but it worked fine. I had priced new fobs unaware of just getting the casing. Crazy costs. Someone mentioned I could get a new fob on Amazon and just have it programmed. Well imagine running across this at less than $20. Reading the reviews I was concerned about transferring the inside. I decided to take it to my dealer, figuring even if I had to pay, I was savings hundreds of what I was willing to pay for a new one. I walked in, saw one of the techs, asked him about getting it done. He was like, 'I'll do it". He took the new set, and voila! In 5 minutes he produced the brand new fob in the pictures, in the cover and all, Costs... $0 ! Everything works as it should, and I have what looks lik a brand new fob.

While it is very clearly the correct replacement for my broken Lincoln fob, the case retention just isn't great. I don't know what causes it, but you really need to squeeze to get it to snap shut, and even then it's under so much tension that it comes apart if you drop it. I tried it with both my main key and the spare, and it was the same for both. I had the misfortune of this happening at the entrance gate a VERY busy event, but luckily I was able to retrieve all the pieces of case and key. I ended up buying a vinyl overcase for it and haven't had an issue since.

I am very unsatisfied with this product the top where you’re supposed to connect it to your keys broke in less than six months. If I wanted to buy a temporary product, I wouldn’t have went on Amazon to buy it.

I recently purchased the Replacement Keyless Entry Remote Smart Key Fob Shell Case for my 2016 Ford Fusion, and I am thoroughly impressed with its quality and functionality. This key fob shell case is an excellent replacement for my worn-out original key fob.The installation was straightforward and took only a few minutes. The case fit perfectly, and all the internal components from my original key fob transferred over without any issues. The buttons are responsive, and the overall feel of the key fob is solid and well-made.Much cheaper than a brand-new key fob, this replacement shell case provides a budget-friendly solutionan affordable option for anyone needing to replace their key fob shell. Highly recommended!

Works great. It's almost exactly like the factory key FOB for a 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid. The Ford branding is missing on the back and there are some very slight differences internally but nothing that affected how you disassemble/assemble.The factory FOBs are notoriously difficult to disassemble and this was the same. Once I had it fully opened, I was able to swap over the circuit board and batteries very easily. The replacement FOB did not have the paper battery separator like the original so I moved that over too but wasn't able to attach it to the little internal peg. I didn't try for too long and I'm not sure if the battery separator is even necessary.Reassembly was normal and then it just worked.

like many others have written, the metal clip battery holder is an issue. It comes attached to the plastic but only very minimally. It's held in place with a plastic pin on the shell that goes through the metal and then is heat pressed to act as a rivet. The OEM's are this way also. However, this one has a very small pin which can/does break very easily. I suggest that you use "super glue" on it before you even think about installing the batteries. Otherwise it will probably break off and you will spend the next 10 minutes properly locating it. Also, as mentioned it does NOT come with the square foam insert that the OEM has to protect the chip. I removed the original from my OEM and put it in this one. Don't do this, as the additional thickness wont allow it to snap back together. Pictured at the top is the OEM with the foam removed, the bottom is this item with foam from OEM inserted here (eventually removed to assemble). You can see the battery clip outside the plastic and at the bottom of the pix.Also not the orientation of the batteries and reinstall the separator between the two batteries.