ComgrowOriginal CR-10 V2 Ultra Flexible Removable Magnetic 3D Printer Build Surface Heated Bed Cover for CR-10 V3 / CR-10S Pro V2 / CR-10S Pro/CR-X/Ender 3 Max 320 x 310mm

I tried getting my table leveled out with this magnetic surface, first using the paper method. However when I brought my Z-axis down in the center of my printing bed to level it evenly after I've "AUTO HOMED" it, it would keep maxing out the Z-Stop switch (that thin metal piece that makes contact and presses the tiny red button). Now I know some of you are thinking, "Well, why don't you raise your printing bed then?" ..I've also tried that. Unfortunately the adjusting screws are only adjusting the CORNERS of my bed, resulting in the middle of the bed being too low. (Picture a square, dining plate that you'd eat on but not that exaggerated) I can't seem to figure out how to raise the middle of my printing bed that way I can adjust the corners accordingly, to level with the middle. My corners are then grinding whilst the middle is too low. I think my heating plate may be too bent and sunken in the middle, or lifted around the edges causing these results. ALSO I am unfortunately unable to lower the physical Z-Stop attachment, It's in a fixed position with 2 screws so It cannot slide down.If anyone has a fix or a neat trick to get around this issue, please help me out, I'd REALLY like to use this magnetic surface. It is a really nice product. Thanks! (Creality ENDER-3 MAX)**EDIT/UPDATE** (5/4/23) -- Turns out my heating bed is indeed warped, either around the perimeter or the center. My Z-Stop issue had absolutely nothing to do with this magnetic plate. Since I don't wanna purchase a new heating bed and ANOTHER magnetic print surface and dealing with all that hassle, I'll just be going back to a glass bed. Great product though! Just a waste of my money because I wasn't aware my heating bed was warped until I applied my magnetic adhesive and ran my leveling steps hahah. Hope this information helps someone before purchasing! Make sure nothing is bent or warped! Cheers!

After crashing my print head into the original build plate and scratching the heck out of it I couldn't find a new OEM bed at a reasonable price. This fit perfectly and held in place without issue. The texture is good and I haven't had a print break free of the bed. The magnets did not work for me because I placed this on top of the OEM glass bed and clipped it into place.

I use this for all my prints with Creality Hyper PLA. Adhesion is good and it is flexible which helps for removing prints. It's easy to install, just place it on the magnetic bed.I would not use this for PETG since the adhesion might be too high. For PETG I would recommend the B plate with the texture, and not this smooth plate.

I originally bought the gold textured plate and it's okay but decided to give this one a shot and wow what a difference. Haven't gone back to the gold one since. I use this textured one for petg and was also using it for tpu before I got a g10 plate which works better for nylon and tpu. I still use the smooth hot plate that came with the k1c for pla, abs, asa. This textured plate had been amazing though. Just remember to increase the bed temp about 10°C when using the textured plate instead of the smooth plate.

Adhesion is pretty good, easy to install and use, but after about 15 prints it had a large piece just peel off. Not sure if this is common but I hope not.Update: got the 2nd one after returning the first one. My printer was down when it arrived so I had it a few days before I got to use it but here it is only a week after I got it and it already cracked and peeled after about 8 prints and I had problems with it the entire time. It stuck alright but too well. At a bed temp of 60 and PLA at 200 it actually even adhered the underside magnet to the magnet adhered to the bed but only directly under the print. I literally had to pry it off the bed before I could begin to remove the print from the surface. Now there's no option for return or refund or anything so I guess I'm just screwed out of my money. As the picture shows, you can see that it was leaving a layer of PLA (I tried 3 different colors just to be sure my filament was not the issue). I didn't use anything on it at all, no alcohol, or even water. This is probably only good if you are doing prints with a large contact area or a large raft and still peel it evenly while it's still hot. If you doing small parts or anything do not use it.

Got this for my CR-6 & it was easily trimmed to size. I mounted the magnet to glass instead of the aluminum bed.Adhesion is strong just on it's own; no hairspray or anything & I doubt a print corner will ever lift off this surface. That strength is a downside when removing the print though.. it can be like it's cemented on & not even flexing it pops it off easily.I found the print comes off easier (comparatively) if the bed is still warm.Also found it a little annoying that even though the bed looks clean, a white ghosted residue from previous prints can be seen on new prints.If you have a CR-6 se, this is a good cheaper alternative to a flexible PEI bed I've found (since there are few available in the correct size & seem to be more expensive...) but I'd still recommend the PEI over this.