HiLetgo 51 AVR ATMEGA8 Programmer USBasp USB ISP 10 Pin USB Programmer 3.3V/5V with Cable

I've used this to program ATTiny microcontrollers. The cable was sketchy at times, so I have adapters that connect directly to the USBasp. It helped to use the option "-B 10" in avrdude.

Be aware. Most likely this will ship with an obsolete version of bootloader firmware on the onboard mega8, and you will need another programmer to fix that problem.

I purchased to program Atmega328P's on custom boards. Though I read and experienced that you need to burn bootloader to set Fuses correctly if you are using external crystal when I tried that first I received an error message "I opened Blink -- File -> Examples -> Basics -> Blink then Sketch -> Upload Using Programmer (I saw delay was several sec when it should be 1 as it was using internal clock not 16Mhz crystal I had installed. At that point I was able to choose Tools -> Burn BootloaderDid have to send a program to board first using Sketch -> Upload using Programmer, after that finished then I re-burned the Blink sketch and the timing was correct.Note: Still getting message "warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update." I read forum appends about using Zadig and updating the firmware to libusbK. Zadig is Windows software and I wanted to avoid it, it seems to work fine with the warning.

I used this to flash my ANET A8 V1.5 board with Marlin firmware. I also needed a 10 to 6 pin adapter. The how-to's you'll find on the internet say you don't need power while flashing, which is somewhat true. However, once the flash is complete, your ANET will reboot and depending on how it's configured, start up the fans, which will pull too much power from this board and burn it out. Keep your ANET plugged into the wall when you flash! Good thing USBasp are so cheap :)

First, the caveats - I installed the JP3 "Slow" jumper for programming virgin, un-unused ATtiny85 chips necessary for a project I was building. That's beyond the ability of some hobbyists, and that might be a deterrent to purchase, depending on your own personal skill and experience. Use under recent versions of Windows requires use of the open-source Zadig utility (a quick internet search will find it easily) to install a "signed" driver - make sure to select the "libusbK" driver.However, once you've done that, the avrdude programming utility ("WinAVR" is what to search for and install) will be able to access and use the interface without a problem. If avrdude's command line interface is not to your liking, you can use the ADRDUDESS front end to select and set all the options you need to program your microcontroller.I will also add all of this works right out of the box under Ubuntu Linux if that's your preference, no driver installation or special tools beyond avrdude required.All in all, it's hard to fault this unit much at all - it's cheap, and while you might have to spend a little time figuring out a set of software tools for your workflow, what do you want for $6? It would be nice if a 10 pin-to-6 pin ICSP programming adapter was included, those are only another few bucks or you can wire one up yourself.

The PCB design can be improved. All you need to do is to disconnect VCC from 5V, and connect it to the voltage selection pin.

Bought a couple based on the positive reviews, but after hours of trying to get it to work, can only conclude they are faulty in some way.Os: Linux and MacOSx. Should work out of the box, but the board was never able to probe any of the boards and chips.Tools: avrdude 6.5 did not work. Used usbasp and usbasp-clone modes, nothing.Attempts: bought two boards, both failed. Tried both direct from cable to port and with jumpers to map pins, neither worked. Tried with usb hub, usbc adapter, and direct off of a linux box’s port, no go.Quite possibly something is mis-wired on the board, but whatever pinout it it claims... it isn’t working with any of the boards or chips I tested it against.Tested against: atmega 2560, atmega 32u4, attiny2313, atmega328p, and atmega1284p.Not bothering to return since the time and effort would cost more than the adapters themselves

I eventually got it to work with arduino, just for a test. Never got it to work with the device I needed it for. Could be a bricked device, but who could tell with the non-existent info. Many web searches were no help. Maybe no one knows?